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The Tower of London

For this, the most profound experience of your London stay, schedule an entire weekday afternoon-and never, never go on Sunday, when it's badly crowded. Rather, immediately af ter a weekday lunch, enter the London Underground and take a train of the Inner Circle or District lines to the Tower Hill Station, from which, a two-minute walk away, is the fabled Tower of London, on the banks of the Thames.

That will plunge you into the turbulent, bloody world of British history, which surrounds you with intense reality as you wander into the stone apartments of Sir Walter Raleigh, his place of imprisonment for twelve years; and see the room in which the Little Princes were smothered; the scaffold site of the execution of kings and queens; and finally, the "Armories" in the important White Tower, in the very center of the tower complex, where the armor of King Henry VIIII is mounted atop a white horse. In the grounds, wander the famous "Beefeaters" (they've heard the gag about the gin hundreds of times) and the ravens with elipped wings, who are the symbols of the tower. Don't allow yourself to be short-changed for time, and don't-again-go on Sunday.

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